Showing posts with label Te Araroa Points of Interest. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Te Araroa Points of Interest. Show all posts

Wednesday, 26 May 2021

Points along the Trail: Lake Tekapo Village

       Visiting Lake Tekapo while on the Te Araroa Trail          

There are a number of small settlements you must pass through while walking the South Island legs of Te Araroa Trail and Lake Tekapo Village is one of them. Lake Tekapo (or Tekapo) is a small village on the northern edge of the Mackenzie Country between the Two Thumb Range and Twizel. 

Looking north to the Two Thumb Range from Lake Tekapo


It is a tourist stop over point on the route to Aoraki/Mt Cook, Wanaka and Queenstown and serves as the rural service hub for the local area. Every TA trekker will have to pass through Lake Tekapo as it sits right on the trail and is the only resupply point between two 3-4 day sections. There are about 100 permeant residents in Lake Tekapo but over the summer and long holiday weekends it is much busier as it is becoming a holiday home mecca. There are now over 1200 homes in Tekapo up from less than forty 25 years ago...

Main drag of Lake Tekapo Village...restaurants and gift shops

Map: Lake Tekapo Village, Mackenzie Basin

Tekapo has limited services but can provide the essentials such as restaurants, a supermarket, accommodation and it also acts as a transportation link with public transport to and from the village. Most people will spend 1-2 days here resting, cleaning gear and resupplying before setting off once again along the trail. 


Lake Tekapo from near the Church of the Good Sheppard


I thought it might be useful to look at what you can expect to find at Lake Tekapo and I will talk about resupply, accommodation options and things to do if you are spending a zero day here. 



Lake Tekapo Village:


My partner Karen and I recently visited Lake Tekapo Village and spent a day there while completing a camper van holiday around the lower South Island. We were heading north back to Christchurch from Aoraki/Mt Cook, Lake Tekapo was our last stop for this trip. 


Aoraki/Mt Cook from Glentanner Holiday Park

After checking into our accommodation we went down to the Church of the Good Shepard (no crowds at all...) where I proceeded to disassemble numerous shorefront rock cairns much to Karen's amusement. Have a read of my post about the damaging effects of unnecessary rock cairns I posted late last year. We visited the Dark Skies Centre and had a look at the various shops and the new 4-Square supermarket along the main drag. 


The Church of the Good Shepard, Lake Tekapo

The Two Thumb Range from near Lake Tekapo Village


The next morning we drove up to the top of Mt John for the spectacular views off the whole Mackenzie Basin. It costs $10 to drive up this private road to near the observatory but it is well worth it as you can see for tens of kilometers from the hill top carpark and cafe. 


Lake Tekapo Village from Mt John, Lake Tekapo

A rainbow visible from the top of Mt John, Mackenzie Basin

Lake Alexandria from the carpark on Mt John, Lake Tekapo

Our Jucy Chaser at the upper carpark, Mt John, Lake Tekapo

It was cloudy and windy the day we visited but on a clear day you can see as far as Aoraki/Mt Cook, Twizel and across Lake Tekapo to the Two Thumb Range. 


Food options in Lake Tekapo:

Supermarket: 

A brand new 4-Square supermarket was built in Tekapo in late 2019 and it makes shopping for food so much easier. It is a medium sized store but it has everything you will need to resupply for the next three to four day sections to Twizel or Geraldine. It is located at the western edge of town and is very obvious from the Tekapo-Twizel Road. It is the only food store in Tekapo so if it does not have what you need you will be heading for either Twizel or Geraldine. 


4-Square is an independent Co-Op brand which tends to have medium to small supermarkets in these smaller country towns. You will also find 4-Square markets in Havelock, Picton, Methven, Hanmer, Wanaka and Te Anau. They are slightly more expensive than some of the larger chain markets but not so much that the prices are exorbitant. 

You will get to know them well while walking the Te Araroa Trail. 


Lake Tekapo 4-Square: aisle 1 and2

Lake Tekapo 4-Square:aisle 3-4

As well as all the normal items you would expect they also sold Backcountry freeze dried meals, milk powder, gas canisters, stove alcohol (methylated spirits), first aid supplies and a limited supply of hardware items such as tape, socks, gloves, wool hats etc.. They had a good selection of meat, cheese and cold cuts to choose from including prepackaged salami, ham and chicken.



Lake Tekapo 4-Square:cold store items

The supermarket is the only off license place to buy alcohol and as with all supermarkets in New Zealand it sells wine, cider and beer but not spirits. 


Lake Tekapo 4-Square:frozen section...ice and pizzas!!!

I was mentally making a list as I walked the aisles and I could easily have put together a nice varied menu for at least a week from the goods sold in the store. The only other place to buy limited grocery items is at either of the two service stations in town but they mostly just sell snack foods.


Cafes, restaurants and takeaways:

There are a number of types and styles of restaurant in Lake Tekapo catering from takeaway meals right through to semi fine dining restaurants with table service. We went out to dinner as a treat for our last night in the camper van...our meal was at a nice Japanese restaurant called Kohan and we had some Kirin beer and sushi, tempura, tonkatsu and breaded lamb chops all of which were delicious. 


The side entrance to Kohan Japanese Restaurant, Lake Tekapo

There are a number of other restaurants and cafes in the village they range from cheap takeaways to full multicourse dining experiences. Some of the most obvious are Doughboys Bakery, Jade Palace Chinese Restaurant (a TA tradition...), Peppers Blue Water Cafe/Restaurant, Mackenzies Cafe Bar and Grill and the Dark Skies Diner. 

Jade Palace Restaurant, Lake Tekapo Village

You will need to check the opening times of all of these eateries as they have shortened their hours since Covid 19. 


Dark Skies diner, Dark Skies Center, Lake Tekapo Village

There are several more eateries but these are just a selection...try searching online for [restaurants + lake tekapo] for more information. Takeaway meals are available from Kohan/Jade Palace/Doughboys (fish and chips etc.) and a small sushi restaurant next to Aotea Gifts.


Accommodation in Lake Tekapo:

There is a full range of accommodation in Lake Tekapo Village from backpackers and campgrounds right through to four star high end resorts. We were staying at the Lakeview Motels and Holiday Park next to the new hot pool complex along the shore of Lake Tekapo.

Reception for Lake Tekapo Motels and Holiday Park

The camp has had a lot of work done on it recently and is now graced with top notch facilities. We had a lake front powered van site and could see down to the lakefront and out to Mt John and the Two Thumb Range on the far side of the lake. They have camp sites here as well as motel units with access to showers, cooking facilities and laundry.


Many camper-vans at the campgrounds, Lake Tekapo

Most people walking the Te Araroa Trail will stay at the YHA Lake Tekapo...it is brand new and very, very flash. They have a variety of rooms available from multi user bunkrooms right up to 2-4 person rooms with Queen Size beds and attached bathrooms. All YHA's have cooking/dining areas, a lounge and laundry facilities. 

YHA Lake Tekapo...two years old!!!

Lake Tekapo YHA has multiuser bunkrooms...

It is located right in the center of Tekapo and has stunning views out over the lake and the surrounding mountains. The 4-Square supermarket it 100 meters away and it is also located right next to the Kohan Restaurant, MacKenzies Bar and Grill and the Dark Skies Center. 
 

...YHA Lake nice double rooms/suites!!!

There are a couple of high end hotels and resort style motels in Tekapo the most obvious is the Peppers Bluewater Resort directly opposite the supermarket on the Tekapo-Twizel Highway. Karen has stayed here before and she said it was lovely with nicely appointed rooms, a cafe/restaurant and some good amenities. She raved about the resort so it sounds like a decent place to stay if you want to pamper yourself. 


Suite room at the Peppers Bluewater Resort Lake Tekapo


There is also the Lake Tekapo Village Motel down near the YHA and Dark Skies Center. It has decent looking rooms ranging from self contained suites right through to top line apartments and is very centrally located for any service you might need. 

Suite at Lake Tekapo Village Motel


Personally I would probably stay in the YHA...it looks nice...certainly one of the better appointed YHA's I have seen here in New Zealand and good value for money. 


Things to do and see in Lake Tekapo:

Lake Tekapo is really a point most people will pass by or only stop in for a short break while driving between other larger towns. Regardless it is actually a nice destination to visit in its own right and if you are walking through on your way north or south you might as well have a look at the attractions there.

The footbridge over the Tekapo River

The first and most obvious (because you walk right past it is the Church of the Good Sheppard down on the Lake Tekapo waterfront. This is a magnificent stone church with awesome vistas out to the lake and lovely stained glass windows inside. It is not open everyday because of the lack of tourists but even just walking around the outside is well worth the effort. 


Right next to the church is a statue to the sheepdog in the form of a collie on a stone plinth. Mustering sheep on the highcountry stations would be impossible without sheep dogs and I'm sure many a Sheppard is closer to his/her dogs than their wife/husband/partner. They probably spend more time together anyway....

Statue to the Sheepdog, Lake Tekapo waterfront
 
There is easy access to the lake front near the Church of the Good Sheppard and you will often find people in the area taking photos with the lake as a backdrop. In the spring the whole lakefront is covered in colorful luppins in pink, purple, red, yellow and white. They are an invasive plant but they are also beautiful and have become so endemic they can never be fully erradicated. there is a pedestrian path from here back into the center of Tekapo village. 

Tekapo lakefront near the Church of the Good Sheppard, Lake Tekapo

Probably of interest to your average TA trekker will be the new swimming and hot pool complex down by the Lakeview Motels and Holiday Park. You follow the road around towards Mt John and there is an ever expanding complex similar to Hanmer. It is well set out and has hot spas, saunas, hot pools and swimming pools...entry is from $29 NZ dollars.

Lake Tekapo Pool complex, Lake Tekapo Village

If you are interested in astronomy and stargazing you should visit the Dark Skies Center and look into one of their Dark Skies Experiences. Lake Tekapo is a UNESCO Dark Sky Reserve with the internationally important Mt John Observatory to the west of the village. The whole Mackenzie basin is one of the best places in the world to look at the night skies. There is a shop and cafe/restaurant at the center and nighttime tours to Mt John can be booked here.


Dark Skies Center at Lake Tekapo Village

If you want to keep those legs going how about a 2-3 hour walk to the summit of Mt John on the Tekapo-Mt John walkway. It has some awesome views of the surrounding area as the Mackenzie Basin is fairly flat. There is a small cafe at the Observatory if you need refreshing after the climb. 


Lake Tekapo and Two Thumb Range from atop Mt John. 


There are many more things to see and do in Lake Tekapo such as 4 W/D tours, ATV tours, horse riding tours, bike hire, MTB tracks, hunting and trout fishing. You may or may not have the time, inclination or money to indulge but you could certainly spend a couple of jam packed adventurous days in the area. 



NOBO/SOBO from Lake Tekapo:

After Lake Tekapo village you are setting off SOBO along the hydro canals for Lake Pukaki about 30 odd kilometers away. You can either walk this section or hire a bike and ride the section as there is a MTB track from Lake Tekapo to Twizel. 

View out over the Mackenzie Basin from Mt John, Lake Tekapo

The hydro canal between Lake Tekapo and Lake Pukaki

From Lake Pukaki you head further south...first to Twizel and the Lake Ohau Track and then onwards to Lake Hawea, Wanaka and Queenstown. You are on the last 400 odd kilometers of the trail heading south to Bluff...


...Lake Pukaki is your next destination!

If walking NOBO you are heading into the Two Thumb Range towards the Rangitata River, Rakaia River and Arthurs Pass NP. If going this way you need to get onto Lillybank Road at the eastern edge of Tekapo and head on out into the backcountry.
 

Looking towards Tekapo Village from Lillybank Road

Cheers all...I hope to see some of you on the trail!!!

Wednesday, 12 September 2018

Points along the Trail: Pelorous Bridge

A look at the facilities available at the Pelorus Bridge camp-ground

One of the iconic spots you will visit on the Te Araroa Trail is Pelorus Bridge, roughly 20 kms north of Havelock. There is (obviously) a bridge at Pelorus but there is also a camp-ground you will need to stay in as Pelorus Bridge is the gateway to the Richmond Ranges, one of the more difficult sections of the TA.


Pelorus Bridge on SH6 between Havelock and Nelson

Map: Pelorus Bridge and the approaches from Daltons Track and Maungatapu Road


I stopped by recently on the way to Nelson and thought a few photos of the facilities might be useful.

Pelorus Bridge Reserve, Marlborough

There have been four bridges over the Pelorus River between Havelock and Nelson, the current bridge was built in the 1950's and is still going strong. There has also been a camp-ground in this scenic reserve for over 10 years now, this is the last taste of civilisation before starting the 7-10 day crossing of the Richmond Ranges.


Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve: from the northern terminus

There is a sizeable car park at Pelorus Bridge it is well sign posted from both directions so it is impossible to miss. There are public toilets and fresh water available near the car park as well as the DOC office and a small café I will talk about below.


Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve: the car-park off SH6

The Pelorus Bridge café and DOC office

There is a handy DOC information kiosk showing the surrounding area located on an island in the middle of the parking area. It has details of all the walks and facilities available here.


Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve: map of the scenic reserve and information


Map: Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve: detail of the reserve

As you can see there are a lot of nice bush walks in and around the bridge area, Te Araroa trekkers will approach the area using Daltons Track or Maungatapu Road. The camp grounds are scattered around Kahikatea Flat for the most part with a picnic area where the lower camp-site used to occupy. 

The Pelorus Bridge Café

There has been a café at Pelorus Bridge since I was a child, I remember stopping here on occasion for a swim in the river and an ice cream while transiting between Blenheim and Nelson.


Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve: directions to facilities

The café building is readily visible as you enter the parking area, the building contains the DOC camp ground office and the attached café.

The Pelorus Bridge Café, Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve

Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve: map of the area near the café

The ownership of the café has recently changed hands (2017), the new owners have carried out a lot of renovations and have improved the food on offer immensely. I had a quick peruse of the wares and they looked top quality and I assume really delicious. 

There is no camp shop at the café as in older times, what they sell is your usual café fare: cabinet food (pies, sandwiches, rolls, cakes and slices) and a small menu of fresh cooked meals. They also sell ice creams, cold drinks, water and good coffee if you need a fix.

View into the Pelorus Bridge Café

There are some nice outdoor seating areas if you want to enjoy your repast el fresco, one area is covered and the other consists of outdoor seats and picnic tables.

Pelorous Bridge Café: outdoor seating area



Pelorus Bridge Café: the bush comes right up to the door

It is my understanding that the DOC office will accept bounce box packages BUT there is no outgoing mail from here and you would need to burn/pack out any and all packaging if you deposit a resupply box here.

  The Kahikatea Flat camp-ground


The Department of Conservation camp ground is located at Kahikatea Flats which is accessible using a short road way next to the café building. It looks like a really nice area and has a wide grassy clearing with about 30 established camp-sites. Over the busy summer period (November-April) the sites need to be booked, it would probably be a good idea to call the camp grounds office while you are in Havelock.

Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve: Kahikatea Flat camp ground sign


Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve: Kahikatea Flat camp ground sign

Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve: Kahikatea Flat camp ground


There are a number of short and medium length tracks which start right next to the camp sites, they range from 30 minutes right up to a four hour tramp. 


Some of the tracks accessible from Kahikatea Flat, Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve

It is a very nice looking area, I camped here once in the early 1990's while on the way to Nelson for a summer holiday and the camp-ground is very busy at that time of the year.

Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve: Kahikatea Flat camp ground

Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve: Kahikatea Flat camp ground

There is a new and nicely appointed cooking shelter/toilet block located at the camp-ground.
 It looked like it would hold about 30 odd people at one time. I would imagine the TA hikers spend a bit of time hanging out in the shelter while they are here.


Camp shelter at Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve: Kahikatea Flat camp ground


Kahikatea Flat camp shelter: Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve: warm water showers

The shelter at Kahikatea Flat camp ground: Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve


The shelter has fresh drinking water inside the shelter and coin feed warm water showers around the back of the building. The shelter also has a couple of gas cook tops with a small selection of pots and pans you can use. 


Inside the Kahikatea Flat camp shelter at Pelorus Bridge

Inside the Kahikatea Flat camp shelter at Pelorus Bridge


Because this is the beginning/end of the Richmond Ranges there is a standard DOC intentions book in the shelter, I had a look and about 80% of the entries are from TA hikers passing through. I recognised a few names from the 2017/18 season...


The DOC intentions book in the Kahikatea camp-ground

In the depth of summer the Pelorus River is a very nice place to swim, the river emerges from native forest so it is not contaminated. There are a number of deep pools both above and below the main bridge.

The Pelorus River, next to the Kahikatea Flat camp-ground



The Pelorus River, next to the Kahikatea Flat camp-ground

The water is often warm as it travels most of the way through the Richmond Ranges warming up as it descends to the bridge area. I have been in the water here and it was lovely on a hot summers day.

Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve: downstream of the bridge

If you are walking this TA section or the next time you are travelling between Blenheim and Nelson why not stop by for coffee and a bite to eat and have a walk along one of the many tracks in the reserve.