Tuesday 13 December 2016

Kerr Bay Campground St Arnaud

Camping in St Arnaud

While most people stay at a Lodge or Bed and Breakfast in St Arnaud you can camp at Kerr Bay camp ground instead.

St Arnaud township

One of the places you will pass through on the Te Araroa is St Arnaud, it is a small town and is the administrative centre for Nelson Lakes NP.


St Arnaud Township from high on the St Arnaud Range

 The township is very small, there would be less than 50 permanent residents and it has a DOC visitor Centre, various accommodation providers, 2 cafe's and a small general store


DOC visitors centre St Arnaud

Kerr Bay Campground

There are a number of DOC camp grounds in St Arnaud but the closest one to the Te Araroa route is at Kerr Bay on the Eastern side of Lake Rotoiti.

Map of St Arnaud Township

The camp-site is very nice, it has a number of areas for tents, a cooking/eating shelter (with gas and hot water provided), hot showers, a big toilet block and a washing/ drying room. I have stayed here a couple of times and found the experience positive. 

Water Taxi jetty, Lake Rotoiti, Nelson Lakes NP

Cooking shelter at Kerr Bay


Kitchen area with gas hob, hot water

The cooking shelter is of the semi enclosed type but by this stage in your TA experience that will be the norm. There is a free gas hob but no pots or pans so use your own.


Dining area, Kerr Bay

The tent/caravan/camper sites past the bushes

Photo of some of the tent sites from the DOC website


It is located right next to the jetty for the water taxi and the terminus of Lakehead Track heading up to Travers Valley, Travers Saddle and Waiau Pass.



Start of Lakehead Track heading to Travers Valley

The camp ground can be busy especially at Christmas as Lake Rotoiti is a Mecca for boaties and the camper van crowd. Over the summer months bookings can be made on-line, other times you need to visit the DOC St Arnaud Visitor Centre, price per night is $20 NZD.

Monday 21 November 2016

Bounce box storage: Mountain House Arthurs Pass


Bounce Box storage and Mountain House, Arthurs Pass NP


I was checking out accommodation providers in Arthur's Pass and came across the page for Mountain House YHA. Mountain House is one of the places TA walkers stay if they take a zero day in the Arthur's Pass township. They have a range of accommodation depending on your need, I have stayed here with a tramping group before and it was nicely appointed.

What really caught my interest were the details of their resupply/bounce box service.






They will hold a bounce box for you to collect when you pass through the area. There is a charge: it is $10 if you are staying and $20 if you are just picking up the box. I note that there are NO outgoing postal services from the village, so this is resupply only, not a traditional bounce box. 


There is an option to resupply from one of the local cafes/store or the DOC office but the range is limited and quite expensive.

You should check out the website if you were thinking of sending a box of supplies to yourself.



Monday 31 October 2016

Te Araroa Information: Arthurs Pass NP

Te Araroa Information on ArthursPass.Com


I have just discovered that the ArthursPass.com website has a lot of information about the Te Araroa sections which run through the National Park. 

ArthursPass.Com home page


You should have a look at this site, it is one of my favourite resources when planning tramping trips to the area. The site is administered by a local Canterbury tramper so the information is up to date and proven through experience.

The ArthursPass.Com page dealing with the Te Araroa Trail

The weather forecasting service they use on the site is also reliable, if I am going to Arthur's Pass I check both it and Met Service. 

Weather forecasting on the ArthursPass.com website



Good advice about the rivers; all of the Te Araroa sections in Arthurs Pass have dangerous un-bridged rivers, exercise caution when crossing them.


Check it out!

Thursday 6 October 2016

DOC Huts: A guide for TA trekkers

 Back country huts: source of pride and shelter


One of the unique things you will encounter on the Te Araroa Trail are the DOC huts which are such a feature of outdoor life here. We have 900+ back country huts scattered around the country which can be used for a very minimal charge. You will probably stay in huts for the section through the Tararua's as well as for almost all of the South Island. That is a lot of hut life!

Pahautea Hut, Pirongia FP...probably the first/last DOC hut on the Te Araroa
 

I am sure you will find the huts are one of the highlights of your visit to New Zealand. 

A breakdown of DOC hut amenities


I thought it might be interesting to look at some of the amenities DOC huts contain as well as discussing some of the rules of good hut etiquette before you start your trek.

Living Space

  Most of the larger huts will have some sort of living area, what this entails varies from hut to hut. Generally this will consist of a table of some description with wooden benches, a cooking bench (see below), heating source (see below) and possibly some shelving space. 

Living/Cooking space, Te Matawai Hut

 If we look at a specific hut, Boyle Flat Hut on the St Arnaud-Boyle section we can see what the hut contains. This is one of my favorite huts, I have been here 5 times now and I have always enjoyed my stay.

 As you can see below there are several tables with bench seating, there is also a very nice bench seat under the window. There are a series of drying wires across the living space for trampers to dry their gear on.

Living area in Boyle Flat Hut

In this photo we can see the integrated gun rack that has been built for this hut, there is a book shelf with some reading material and some information panels on the walls.


River side of Boyle Flat Hut, St James Conservation Area

  
The other side of the room has a cooking bench along the wall, with shelf units above and below it. The sleeping area at Boyle Flat consists of two separate 10 bunk rooms. This hut was built by the Walkways Commission back in the early 1980's so it has a much higher level of amenity than your more typical 4 or 6 bunk hut.

Other side of Boyle Flat Hut living area

Compare this to Hackett Hut in Mt Richmond FP, this is a classic NZFS 6 bunk hut. It has the same amenities but in a much more compact form. Generally these smaller huts are an open room design, they will not have a table but will still have a cooking bench, heating and shelving.

Entrance way for Hackett Hut

Hackett Hut Interior

Sleeping areas

Many of the DOC huts were built as overnight shelter for NZFS forestry workers, deer cullers and musterer's so of course they needed sleep facilities. 

Some of the older huts still have the original canvas/burlap sacking bunks which was the standard format up till the late 1960's. This consists of a piece of canvas stretched over poles to make a hammock like bunk. If you never have the doubtful pleasure of sleeping in one just let me say...they are damn uncomfortable!

Canvas sacking bunks, West Harper Hut

Far more common are huts with mattresses and bunks/sleeping platforms. A sleeping platform in one large expanse of wood or concrete which you top with the supplied mattresses. This is the most economical use of space as 10 people can fit on a sleeping platform that will only hold 6 individual bunks.

Sleeping platform at Boyle Flat Hut

Bunks are individual spaces, just big enough for the standard DOC foam mattresses to fit on and are more common with huts built after the mid 1970's. All DOC huts can be partially characterised by the number of bunks supplied: for example Anne Hut is a 24 bunk hut, whereas tiny Harpers Pass Bivy is a 2 bunk.

Lagoon Saddle Shelter, confined sleeping space

Individual bunks in Anti Crow Hut


When you leave in the morning please stack the mattresses on their sides in an orderly fashion, this protects them from dust, vermin and mildew.

Nicely stacked mattresses in Christopher Hut

A note concerning bunk reservations...

There are zero huts on the main TA route where you can reserve a bunk, it is first come first served. If you are hiking with a group and arrive piecemeal, good hut etiquette dictates that you cannot reserve a bunk for your mate....they need to be there in person.

 Hut floors, decks and verandas make great back ups if the bunks are all taken and this perfectly allowable (I have slept on a hut table a couple of times before...). You can sleep in your tent and only use the hut for cooking, socialising etc. if that proves necessary.

Share the hut: if there are 6 of you in a 6 bunk hut and a group of 8 arrive move over, make room for them and welcome them in.

This is the Kiwi way.....behave like we would while you are in Kiwi-land!

Verandas/Decks

There is a trend in the newer huts to include both verandas and decks to maximise the usable space.

Decks are a welcome addition to huts, as they provide space to sit in the sun, dry out gear and generally stop mud from entering the hut itself. There is nothing finer of an afternoon than sitting on a sunny sand fly free deck supping a hot brew.

Anne Hut, the wrap around deck look
 
Verandas are often built onto existing huts to provide a place for hanging wet gear out of the rain as well as providing storage areas for firewood. They range in size from small alcoves right through to fully enclosed secondary rooms.

Boyle Flat Hut, veranda and deck

Inside the Lakehead Hut veranda, Nelson Lakes NP

 Water sources

With some exceptions every DOC hut will have one of two types of water source: a rainwater tank or a nearby stream or river.

Your source of water, a nearby river

The vast majority of huts will still get their water from a nearby stream or river but this is changing. With climate change, drier weather and more people visiting back country areas these water sources either disappear or become vectors for sickness. The solution is rain water tanks.

Boyle Flat Hut, stream fed water tank

Increasingly DOC huts are provided with a rainwater tank, these take rainwater from the hut gutters and store it in large capacity tanks. This is especially prevalent in low precipitation areas like the Richmond Range and at those huts atop ridge lines or on drier east facing hills.

 
Magdalen Hut, rain water tank to left

 All new huts are built to this standard and more and more older ones are having them added as maintenance is done on the huts. Eventually all of the maintained huts will get the majority of their water from rain. 

Water is a precious resource please conserve it: take only what you need and make sure any tap you use is firmly shut.

Cooking spaces

  Cooking mishaps are the number two reason huts burn down so DOC have provided us with metal cooking benches for your stove. Please use these, as cooking on one of the wooden tables or the floor of a hut can easily cause a fire.
  
Magdalen Hut, Lake Sumner FP: the  cooking bench

In the newer huts these benches will be stainless steel, generally with a metal backsplash on the nearby walls. There will be a window for ventilation and candle holders or solar lighting panels to illuminate the area. 

Lakehead Hut cooking area, table and bench

In the older huts the bench will be made of zinc covered wood but they provide the same protection for the hut. Some popular huts may have pots, pans, utensils etc. but don't count on this, bring your own.


Classic NZFS zinc covered cooking bench, Mid Robinson Hut

Many of the established DOC campgrounds will have a covered shelter where you can cook and hang out. Generally these are set up like a hut: steel/zinc covered bench, picnic table with seating or benches and water supply from tank or stream. If the bugs aren't too bad these are excellent places to mingle with other TA hikers and trampers in general.

Cooking shelter, Bay of Many Coves, Queen Charlotte Track

Fire places/stoves

Most DOC huts in will have a fireplace, gas heater or wood burner in them. These are to provide heating as well as a place to cook. What you wont always get is wood- only the Great Walk and serviced huts will have a fuel supply- otherwise it is up to you to provide.


Example of an open fireplace

Firewood waiting to go into the wood shed


All huts with wood heating will have either an axe (usually chained to the wood shed) or a bow saw for cutting firewood. Please return them to their spot so other trampers can use them in the future




Wood burner in Magdalen Hut

Hut etiquette note:

Please do not cut up the furniture, decks, doors etc. and burn it (yes people have done this), not only is it ridiculous it also the number one way to get off side with a Kiwi Tramper. If I turn up at a hut and I see you shoving the last piece of the table into the fire rest assured I will tear you a new one....

Please do not cut down the 200 year old tree next to the hut....go find some standing dry in the forest and cut it up with the axe or saw provided. Don't use all the wood, replace the dry wood you use so the next visitors have some.

Nothing like a blazing fire...


Make sure the fireplace is cleared or at least fully out before you leave. More huts burn down because of careless ash handling than any other cause. Dowse them or put them in the ash barrel if there is one. As a last resort leave the cooling ashes in the fireplace with the door firmly shut, at least they wont burn down the hut if they are contained.


Ash barrel at Lakehead Hut, Nelson Lakes NP

Finally, if it is a sweltering 30 degree summer day don't light the fire, it is not necessary. You are just wasting firewood and pissing off your hut mates.

Cheers!

Toilet facilities

Ah... a subject dear to the heart of all trampers....toilets!

Almost all of the 900+ DOC huts will have toilet facilities of one sort or another, the quality will depend on popularity of the hut, its age, location and users.

Were there be people there be long drop....

The toilets will range from very basic long drops right through to palatial toilet mansions with flushing toilets, sinks, fresh water and even a supply of paper in some cases.

Basic: "Bog" standard DOC long drop toilet


Better: Slightly more up market facilities


Oh yeah: High quality DOC Campground toilet block

Two things to consider:

1.  Bring your own paper as 98% of the DOC facilities will not have any.

2.  USE THE TOILETS! There was a lot of hate for TA thru hikers in the media earlier this year as tales of sordid toilet habits were made public. It seems that people were "doing their business" outside hut doors and on tracks rather than using the toilets provided.

It may not have been TA walkers but that is who got blamed.

Don't be that guy or gal... if there is a toilet available then bloody well use it!
If you must "s - - t in the woods" do it right and bury your waste at least 100 meters away from water/tracks/huts.

Martins Hut, Longwood Forest...the first/last hut on the Te Araroa Trail

Miscellaneous Hut Gear

Stuff you will commonly find in a DOC Hut:
  • Broom (Hint: You use it to sweep the floor...)
  • Ash bucket for the fire
  • Axe and/ or saw for cutting firewood
  • Half brush and shovel
  • A green DOC hut visitors book

Axe and bow saw, Mt Rintoul Hut, Richmond FP

Stuff you might find in a hut but don't rely on it:
  • Buckets/bowls/pots/pans
  • Reading matter
  • Paper/matches/lighter for starting a fire
  • Pack of Cards
  • Spare tramping food
Standard DOC hut visitors book
 
Weird stuff I have found in a hut:
  • a 750ml bottle of good red wine (seriously...why didn't you just drink it...it was delicious by the way)
  • A pair of lavender coloured frilly French knickers
  • a 12 pack of condoms...found near the knickers...how do you even have the energy?
  • One sized 10 boot??????

 Use them....don't abuse them!

We Kiwis are justifiably proud of our hut network and we are also very protective of it. All of us are privileged to be able to use these huts and Kiwi's will frequently tell you so until your ears start bleeding... 

Please bear in mind they are a finite resource: DOC is strapped for cash so if you damage a hut or burn it down it will probably not be repaired/replaced.

Fill in the hut book, DOC maintain these huts based on the number of visitors to them and hut book statistics are their main source of data. No data....no maintenance!

Pay your hut fees........I do, so should you. This includes kiwi trampers...no you haven't already paid for them, Joe Taxpayer paid for them back in 1971 when the hut was built! Don't be so cheap.
 


If in doubt, treat the hut like your own home, there's a good fellow....