Showing posts with label Resupply points. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Resupply points. Show all posts

Wednesday, 26 May 2021

Points along the Trail: Lake Tekapo Village

       Visiting Lake Tekapo while on the Te Araroa Trail          

There are a number of small settlements you must pass through while walking the South Island legs of Te Araroa Trail and Lake Tekapo Village is one of them. Lake Tekapo (or Tekapo) is a small village on the northern edge of the Mackenzie Country between the Two Thumb Range and Twizel. 

Looking north to the Two Thumb Range from Lake Tekapo


It is a tourist stop over point on the route to Aoraki/Mt Cook, Wanaka and Queenstown and serves as the rural service hub for the local area. Every TA trekker will have to pass through Lake Tekapo as it sits right on the trail and is the only resupply point between two 3-4 day sections. There are about 100 permeant residents in Lake Tekapo but over the summer and long holiday weekends it is much busier as it is becoming a holiday home mecca. There are now over 1200 homes in Tekapo up from less than forty 25 years ago...

Main drag of Lake Tekapo Village...restaurants and gift shops

Map: Lake Tekapo Village, Mackenzie Basin

Tekapo has limited services but can provide the essentials such as restaurants, a supermarket, accommodation and it also acts as a transportation link with public transport to and from the village. Most people will spend 1-2 days here resting, cleaning gear and resupplying before setting off once again along the trail. 


Lake Tekapo from near the Church of the Good Sheppard


I thought it might be useful to look at what you can expect to find at Lake Tekapo and I will talk about resupply, accommodation options and things to do if you are spending a zero day here. 



Lake Tekapo Village:


My partner Karen and I recently visited Lake Tekapo Village and spent a day there while completing a camper van holiday around the lower South Island. We were heading north back to Christchurch from Aoraki/Mt Cook, Lake Tekapo was our last stop for this trip. 


Aoraki/Mt Cook from Glentanner Holiday Park

After checking into our accommodation we went down to the Church of the Good Shepard (no crowds at all...) where I proceeded to disassemble numerous shorefront rock cairns much to Karen's amusement. Have a read of my post about the damaging effects of unnecessary rock cairns I posted late last year. We visited the Dark Skies Centre and had a look at the various shops and the new 4-Square supermarket along the main drag. 


The Church of the Good Shepard, Lake Tekapo

The Two Thumb Range from near Lake Tekapo Village


The next morning we drove up to the top of Mt John for the spectacular views off the whole Mackenzie Basin. It costs $10 to drive up this private road to near the observatory but it is well worth it as you can see for tens of kilometers from the hill top carpark and cafe. 


Lake Tekapo Village from Mt John, Lake Tekapo

A rainbow visible from the top of Mt John, Mackenzie Basin

Lake Alexandria from the carpark on Mt John, Lake Tekapo

Our Jucy Chaser at the upper carpark, Mt John, Lake Tekapo

It was cloudy and windy the day we visited but on a clear day you can see as far as Aoraki/Mt Cook, Twizel and across Lake Tekapo to the Two Thumb Range. 


Food options in Lake Tekapo:

Supermarket: 

A brand new 4-Square supermarket was built in Tekapo in late 2019 and it makes shopping for food so much easier. It is a medium sized store but it has everything you will need to resupply for the next three to four day sections to Twizel or Geraldine. It is located at the western edge of town and is very obvious from the Tekapo-Twizel Road. It is the only food store in Tekapo so if it does not have what you need you will be heading for either Twizel or Geraldine. 


4-Square is an independent Co-Op brand which tends to have medium to small supermarkets in these smaller country towns. You will also find 4-Square markets in Havelock, Picton, Methven, Hanmer, Wanaka and Te Anau. They are slightly more expensive than some of the larger chain markets but not so much that the prices are exorbitant. 

You will get to know them well while walking the Te Araroa Trail. 


Lake Tekapo 4-Square: aisle 1 and2

Lake Tekapo 4-Square:aisle 3-4

As well as all the normal items you would expect they also sold Backcountry freeze dried meals, milk powder, gas canisters, stove alcohol (methylated spirits), first aid supplies and a limited supply of hardware items such as tape, socks, gloves, wool hats etc.. They had a good selection of meat, cheese and cold cuts to choose from including prepackaged salami, ham and chicken.



Lake Tekapo 4-Square:cold store items

The supermarket is the only off license place to buy alcohol and as with all supermarkets in New Zealand it sells wine, cider and beer but not spirits. 


Lake Tekapo 4-Square:frozen section...ice and pizzas!!!

I was mentally making a list as I walked the aisles and I could easily have put together a nice varied menu for at least a week from the goods sold in the store. The only other place to buy limited grocery items is at either of the two service stations in town but they mostly just sell snack foods.


Cafes, restaurants and takeaways:

There are a number of types and styles of restaurant in Lake Tekapo catering from takeaway meals right through to semi fine dining restaurants with table service. We went out to dinner as a treat for our last night in the camper van...our meal was at a nice Japanese restaurant called Kohan and we had some Kirin beer and sushi, tempura, tonkatsu and breaded lamb chops all of which were delicious. 


The side entrance to Kohan Japanese Restaurant, Lake Tekapo

There are a number of other restaurants and cafes in the village they range from cheap takeaways to full multicourse dining experiences. Some of the most obvious are Doughboys Bakery, Jade Palace Chinese Restaurant (a TA tradition...), Peppers Blue Water Cafe/Restaurant, Mackenzies Cafe Bar and Grill and the Dark Skies Diner. 

Jade Palace Restaurant, Lake Tekapo Village

You will need to check the opening times of all of these eateries as they have shortened their hours since Covid 19. 


Dark Skies diner, Dark Skies Center, Lake Tekapo Village

There are several more eateries but these are just a selection...try searching online for [restaurants + lake tekapo] for more information. Takeaway meals are available from Kohan/Jade Palace/Doughboys (fish and chips etc.) and a small sushi restaurant next to Aotea Gifts.


Accommodation in Lake Tekapo:

There is a full range of accommodation in Lake Tekapo Village from backpackers and campgrounds right through to four star high end resorts. We were staying at the Lakeview Motels and Holiday Park next to the new hot pool complex along the shore of Lake Tekapo.

Reception for Lake Tekapo Motels and Holiday Park

The camp has had a lot of work done on it recently and is now graced with top notch facilities. We had a lake front powered van site and could see down to the lakefront and out to Mt John and the Two Thumb Range on the far side of the lake. They have camp sites here as well as motel units with access to showers, cooking facilities and laundry.


Many camper-vans at the campgrounds, Lake Tekapo

Most people walking the Te Araroa Trail will stay at the YHA Lake Tekapo...it is brand new and very, very flash. They have a variety of rooms available from multi user bunkrooms right up to 2-4 person rooms with Queen Size beds and attached bathrooms. All YHA's have cooking/dining areas, a lounge and laundry facilities. 

YHA Lake Tekapo...two years old!!!

Lake Tekapo YHA has multiuser bunkrooms...

It is located right in the center of Tekapo and has stunning views out over the lake and the surrounding mountains. The 4-Square supermarket it 100 meters away and it is also located right next to the Kohan Restaurant, MacKenzies Bar and Grill and the Dark Skies Center. 
 

...YHA Lake nice double rooms/suites!!!

There are a couple of high end hotels and resort style motels in Tekapo the most obvious is the Peppers Bluewater Resort directly opposite the supermarket on the Tekapo-Twizel Highway. Karen has stayed here before and she said it was lovely with nicely appointed rooms, a cafe/restaurant and some good amenities. She raved about the resort so it sounds like a decent place to stay if you want to pamper yourself. 


Suite room at the Peppers Bluewater Resort Lake Tekapo


There is also the Lake Tekapo Village Motel down near the YHA and Dark Skies Center. It has decent looking rooms ranging from self contained suites right through to top line apartments and is very centrally located for any service you might need. 

Suite at Lake Tekapo Village Motel


Personally I would probably stay in the YHA...it looks nice...certainly one of the better appointed YHA's I have seen here in New Zealand and good value for money. 


Things to do and see in Lake Tekapo:

Lake Tekapo is really a point most people will pass by or only stop in for a short break while driving between other larger towns. Regardless it is actually a nice destination to visit in its own right and if you are walking through on your way north or south you might as well have a look at the attractions there.

The footbridge over the Tekapo River

The first and most obvious (because you walk right past it is the Church of the Good Sheppard down on the Lake Tekapo waterfront. This is a magnificent stone church with awesome vistas out to the lake and lovely stained glass windows inside. It is not open everyday because of the lack of tourists but even just walking around the outside is well worth the effort. 


Right next to the church is a statue to the sheepdog in the form of a collie on a stone plinth. Mustering sheep on the highcountry stations would be impossible without sheep dogs and I'm sure many a Sheppard is closer to his/her dogs than their wife/husband/partner. They probably spend more time together anyway....

Statue to the Sheepdog, Lake Tekapo waterfront
 
There is easy access to the lake front near the Church of the Good Sheppard and you will often find people in the area taking photos with the lake as a backdrop. In the spring the whole lakefront is covered in colorful luppins in pink, purple, red, yellow and white. They are an invasive plant but they are also beautiful and have become so endemic they can never be fully erradicated. there is a pedestrian path from here back into the center of Tekapo village. 

Tekapo lakefront near the Church of the Good Sheppard, Lake Tekapo

Probably of interest to your average TA trekker will be the new swimming and hot pool complex down by the Lakeview Motels and Holiday Park. You follow the road around towards Mt John and there is an ever expanding complex similar to Hanmer. It is well set out and has hot spas, saunas, hot pools and swimming pools...entry is from $29 NZ dollars.

Lake Tekapo Pool complex, Lake Tekapo Village

If you are interested in astronomy and stargazing you should visit the Dark Skies Center and look into one of their Dark Skies Experiences. Lake Tekapo is a UNESCO Dark Sky Reserve with the internationally important Mt John Observatory to the west of the village. The whole Mackenzie basin is one of the best places in the world to look at the night skies. There is a shop and cafe/restaurant at the center and nighttime tours to Mt John can be booked here.


Dark Skies Center at Lake Tekapo Village

If you want to keep those legs going how about a 2-3 hour walk to the summit of Mt John on the Tekapo-Mt John walkway. It has some awesome views of the surrounding area as the Mackenzie Basin is fairly flat. There is a small cafe at the Observatory if you need refreshing after the climb. 


Lake Tekapo and Two Thumb Range from atop Mt John. 


There are many more things to see and do in Lake Tekapo such as 4 W/D tours, ATV tours, horse riding tours, bike hire, MTB tracks, hunting and trout fishing. You may or may not have the time, inclination or money to indulge but you could certainly spend a couple of jam packed adventurous days in the area. 



NOBO/SOBO from Lake Tekapo:

After Lake Tekapo village you are setting off SOBO along the hydro canals for Lake Pukaki about 30 odd kilometers away. You can either walk this section or hire a bike and ride the section as there is a MTB track from Lake Tekapo to Twizel. 

View out over the Mackenzie Basin from Mt John, Lake Tekapo

The hydro canal between Lake Tekapo and Lake Pukaki

From Lake Pukaki you head further south...first to Twizel and the Lake Ohau Track and then onwards to Lake Hawea, Wanaka and Queenstown. You are on the last 400 odd kilometers of the trail heading south to Bluff...


...Lake Pukaki is your next destination!

If walking NOBO you are heading into the Two Thumb Range towards the Rangitata River, Rakaia River and Arthurs Pass NP. If going this way you need to get onto Lillybank Road at the eastern edge of Tekapo and head on out into the backcountry.
 

Looking towards Tekapo Village from Lillybank Road

Cheers all...I hope to see some of you on the trail!!!

Wednesday, 16 September 2020

Resupply Point: Havelock, Pelorous Sound, Nelson-Marlborough

Havelock as a Te Araroa Trail resupply point...

I recently passed through Havelock near Pelorous Sound on my way to a tramping trip in Kahurangi National Park. I stopped and took some photos of the town and its supermarket as I thought it might be useful to investigate the town as a potential resupply point.

The main street of Havelock in Marlborough Province...

Havelock is half way between Anakiwa at the end of the Queen Charlotte Track and Pelorous Bridge the entrance to the Richmond Ranges. You would be arriving here on day 6-8 of a SOBO trek or day 8-10 of a NOBO trip from St Arnaud so you will be needing an urgent resupply.

Map: Havelock is half way between Anakiwa and Pelorous Bridge

Havelock is the only place close to the trail you can resupply before starting the next two sections of the trail as both Anakiwa and Pelorous Bridge are small settlements.  You used to be able to send drop boxes to Pelorous Bridge campground but this service is no longer available. Your only other option is to hitch to Blenheim about 40 odd kilometres away.


Pelorous Sound from the northern outskirts of Havelock
Havelock is small...less than 300 permanent residents as it is simply a service center for the forestry, farming, factory fishing and holiday industries which exist nearby. There is one petrol station, a medium sized supermarket, some restaurants/cafes, retail shops and other infrastructure to support the local community.


Map: Street map of Havelock, Pelorous Sound

One thing Havelock is famous for are the extensive mussel and salmon farms in nearby Pelorous and Kenepuru Sounds. If you are visiting or staying in Havelock make sure you have some mussels..there are several places selling them and they are really good. 

A visit to the Mussel Pot Cafe is a Te Araroa institution...

There is enough in Havelock for a reasonable rest/lay day but if you needed more than basic food resupply, accommodation or meals you need to hitch to Blenheim. Anyway...lets have a look at what Havelock has to offer the TA trekker...



Four Square Havelock:

Havelock has only the one food store and that is the Four Square supermarket on the corner of SH6 and Neil Street. Four Square supermarkets are very common in smaller towns such as this...they are independently owned but buy goods as a co-operative so they are able to charge similar prices to the big chains. 


The Four Square supermarket in Havelock, Marlborough

The Havelock Four Square supermarket is well stocked and it has almost every item you will need to do a full resupply before you continue your journey. Taking a look at a selection of items the prices are almost the same as in any larger supermarket in a big town or city. 


Havelock Four Square:Chilled food section, fruit and vegetables

Havelock Four Square:a full spread of cured meats...

There are a couple of taverns in Havelock but no liquor outlets so the closest thing you have is the alcohol selection at the supermarket. They have a good range of beer, wine and cider for sale but as with all supermarkets in New Zealand no spirits. There is an off licence at the Havelock Hotel if spirits are your thing.....they have limited hours so check to see when they are open. 


Havelock Four Square:beer, sparkling wine and cider...

Havelock Four Square:various wines, snack nuts and potato chips...

Probably the best way to describe to you what they have in stock is simply to show you. Here are a series of photos of all of the shelves in the Havelock Four Square so you can see for yourself...


Havelock Four Square:crackers, biscuits,cereal...

Havelock Four Square:they have a comprehensive Muesli bar selection...

Havelock Four Square:juice, powdered drinks, soda, iced tea...

Havelock Four Square: a good spread of fish in packets and cans, soup, beans etc.


They had a good selection of bread, wraps, tortillas, pastries etc. so plenty of scope for lunches and no cook dinner meals....


Havelock Four Square:they had bread, wraps, croissant and pastries

Havelock Four Square:teas, coffee, cocoa etc.

Havelock Four Square:dried fruit, nuts and eggs...

They had a selection of the most popular Backcountry freeze dried meals including the fancy muesli and porridge meals. There was also a comprehensive selection of those Continental, Maggi and San Remo pasta side dishes. Plenty of noodles, rice, pasta, instant mash and Mexican meal items....


Havelock Four Square:pasta, rice, sidemeals,  noodles and Backcountry meals

Lots of chocolate including some of the fancy brands for those of you who carry when out on trail.....not me. I only very occasionally carry chocolate and if I am it will be Whittakers sante bars, Snickers or peanut M & M's.

I am more of a savoury guy...chips, olives, cheese, salted nuts, jerky are more my style.


Havelock Four Square:lots of chocolate...

Havelock Four Square: chocolate, sweets, powdered milk etc.

The Four Square had a fairly comprehensive selection of hardware including Meths (for Trangia type cookers), candles, matches and storage bags. What they did not have were any gas canisters..I specifically looked for them but there were none in the store. 

This is problematic as there is no source of them before you enter the Richmond Ranges so you either need to carry them with you from Picton or go 'no cook' on this section of the trail. They may sell them at the service station in Havelock...I will have a look the next time I am passing through. 


Havelock Four Square:hardware, cleaners, meths etc.

Havelock Four Square:storage bags/containers, stationary, tape....


The town may be small but the Four Square in Havelock would be more than capable of resupplying you for your next sections of the trail. They have enough variety to cater for a range of tastes and I am sure you will be able to find something in store to see you through to your next resupply point. 


Bars & eateries in Havelock:

Havelock is on SH6 the main road between Blenheim and Nelson so it has a number of cafes, restaurants and bars to cater to the people passing through. Most of these are clustered around the main road but there are a couple of eateries down by the Marina as well.

The Havelock Marina, Marlborough Sounds

One of the things you should try if you are in Havelock are some green lipped Mussels...they are farmed in the local areas and are damn delicious. Probably the best place for these is the Mussel Pot a well known TA tradition. They do a variety of lunch and dinner meals with an emphasis on seafood...go for the steamed mussels in white wine with crusty bread...yum!!!

They also do non-seafood meals so check out their online menu...


The Mussel Pot steamed mussels.....marvelous!!!
Another place I have eaten lunch is the Captains Daughter a brasserie style cafe, restaurant and bar close to the supermarket. The meal I had was very nice and the cafe has a nice ambiance to it...it was busy as it is the most obvious eatery in the town so you should probably book in for dinner. Prices were moderate and well within a modest budget. 

The Captains Daughter is a cafe/bar in Havelock...
 I have also heard good things about the Mills Bay Mussel Tasting Company they are a Mussel factory farming business but have a retail store and cafe located near the Marina. Dine in or take away options are available. I am going to visit the next time I am heading through Havelock.

Mills Bay Mussels Tasting Room and Eatery

There are a couple of other cafes and restaurants in the town but as I have not sampled their wares I cannot comment on the quality. 

If you are looking to wet your whistle there are three bars in Havelock...the first is the Captains Daughter, there is also the Havelock Hotel and the Slip Inn Brasserie and Bar. All three have websites so have a look to see when they are open. 

The Slip Inn Brasserie and Bar at the Havelock Marina

Apart from the places I have mentioned it is Muggins choice...go have a look at the menus at different places and choose one that suits your taste and budget.


Accommodation in Havelock

Havelock is a days walk from both Anakiwa and the start of the Richmond Range at Pelorous Bridge so it is a good spot for a rest/lay day.


You are going to need somewhere to stay. There are a range of accommodation options in the town ranging from campgrounds right up to top of the line lodges, hotels and holiday homes. The cheapest is the Havelock Holiday Park with tent sites, cabins and dorm style rooms. They have a dining/cooking hall and facilities like showers and laundry services.

Havelock Holiday Park has tent sites and camp facilities...

Moving up the price range there are a couple of Bed and Breakfast places in Havelock which provide accommodation and a morning meal. There are also several motels scattered at various places in the town and if you are a squillionaire there are a couple of high end Lodges.

The Havelock Garden Motel is right in the center of town...

My best advice would be to look at the TA Trail notes for this section and check out the blogs of TA alumni to get their recommendations for good places to stay. 


Miscellaneous information about Havelock and Marlborough:


The closest city with a full range of retail, accommodation and administrative services is Blenheim approximately 40 odd kilometers south along SH 6. Blenheim has around 30 000 residents so it has everything you might need including several big supermarkets, outdoor retail outlets, a hospital, an airport, fast food outlets (KFC/Subway/MacDonalds) and an area DOC office.

Blenheim is the closest city to Havelock...

You can hitch or take public transport (shuttles) to Blenheim or Nelson and some of them will drop you at the Pelorous Bridge camp ground if needed. This would save you one day of mostly road walking on a narrow and very busy highway. 

The campground and camp shelter at Pelorous Bridge Reserve

There is a pharmacy in Havelock which may be able to help you with basic medical requirements such as tape, bandages and over the counter medication. There is also a small museum and the area around the marina is worth visiting to see the various yachts and motor vessels tied up there.

There is a small museum in Havelock...
Heading SOBO you will head to Canvastown before joining Daltons Road all the way to the camp ground at Pelorous Bridge on the edge of the Richmond Ranges. NOBO you have a mix of  track and road walking to Anakiwa at the southern end of the Queen Charlotte Track. Both are one days walk or around 20 kilometres away. 

Anakiwa...the southern terminus of the Queen Charlotte Track

So...hopefully some of that information will be useful to you as you do your planning for your trek of the Te Araroa Trail.